poor electrical connection

Post by c***@gmail.com
feel that the connector is not connecting properly and was wondering if
anyhow knew of a grease or silicone that is available in Canada.

I use Dow Corning 4 Electical Insulating Compound (http://tinyurl.com/avgza)
available at most industrial supply shops. I also have a tube of Grote
Ultra-Seal. While not as good as the Dow Corning stuff, it's available at
Princess Auto stores everywhere. ;)

Steve

wws

2005-12-05 03:09:52 UTC

Post by c***@gmail.com
Hello,
I have all ready read other posts but I am not sure where I can buy
"copper grease" or "dielectric" here in Canada so I thought I would
make my own post.
Last summer I replaced the windshield washer pump because the old one
stopped working. When I installed the new one I couldn't get the pump
to work with the connector pushed all the way on. I released it some
(still connected mind you) and it worked until the cold Canadian winter
started. I removed the motor, checked the connector for power with a
volt meter and it appears to work. I was then going to reverse the
connections from the connector to the pump however I was not able to
make the jump wires stay in place to do this. I then hook the pump to
a nine volt batter and it work, even when reversing the polarity. I
feel that the connector is not connecting properly and was wondering if
anyhow knew of a grease or silicone that is available in Canada.
Thanks,
Carl
http://www.geocities.com/billbobbarama

Computer chip heat sink compound.
I use ignition module heat sink in my computer.

aarcuda69062

2005-12-05 03:31:14 UTC

In article

The type of magic grease you want is called;

A new connector.

=?x-user-defined?Q?=AB?= Paul =?x-user-defined?Q?=BB?=

2005-12-05 04:52:11 UTC

Take the connectors completly apart. Remove the wires from the connectors and
clean the contacts with something - knife, dremel brush, etc. If they are shot,
you will need new ends. Use dielectric grease on the cleaned ends or new ends -
you can get it at any auto parts store. Do not use computer heat sink compound.
It is not dielectric grease. If there are no auto parts stores in your
city/state/country, then use CV joint synthetic grease - it is better than
nothing. I don't know what "copper grease" is - it sounds like it would short out
the wiring.

Daniel J. Stern

2005-12-06 03:39:21 UTC

Post by =?x-user-defined?Q?=AB?= Paul =?x-user-defined?Q?=BB?=
I don't know what "copper grease" is - it sounds like it would short out
the wiring.

I love it when people parlay their ignorance into factoids like this.

d***@my-deja.com

2005-12-05 09:44:28 UTC

Post by c***@gmail.com
I have all ready read other posts but I am not sure where I can buy
"copper grease" or "dielectric" here in Canada so I thought I would
make my own post.
Last summer I replaced the windshield washer pump because the old one
stopped working. When I installed the new one I couldn't get the pump
to work with the connector pushed all the way on. I
I feel that the connector is not connecting properly and was wondering if
anyhow knew of a grease or silicone that is available in Canada.

Silicone grease only protects against corrosion and will not turn a bad
connection into a good one. If your connection is clean and tight but
still doesn't work, then you have a bad connector, either where it
attaches to the terminal or where the wire is crimped to it.

You mentioned both dielectric grease and copper grease. Copper-laced
grease will conduct electricity while dielectric grease, by definition,
is an electrical insulator. You want the latter to avoid shorts, but
don't worry about its insulating property preventing good electrical
continuity since the metal contacts will pierce the grease film. By
the way, if you measure the resistance of metal-laced grease, most
likely it will measure as an insulator, but don't be fooled by this
because it definitely will conduct. Even true dielectric grease can
cause conduction after a film of engine oil or gasoline accumulates and
turns into carbon.

Somebody mentioned Dow Corning #4 dielectric. I would recommend you
use something else because DC 4 is very thin and runny. Loctite makes
a thick dielectric grease specifically for cars, and ordinary opaque
white silicone transistor heatsink grease sold by Radio Shack or
electronics parts stores is also suitable.

Steve Mackie

2005-12-05 12:37:59 UTC

Post by d***@my-deja.com
Somebody mentioned Dow Corning #4 dielectric. I would recommend you
use something else because DC 4 is very thin and runny. Loctite makes

Incorrect statement.

aarcuda69062

2005-12-05 15:01:30 UTC

Post by d***@my-deja.com
Somebody mentioned Dow Corning #4 dielectric. I would recommend you
use something else because DC 4 is very thin and runny. Loctite makes

Incorrect statement.

So is recommending using dielectric grease to enhance a weak
mechanical connection.

If anything, Stabilant-22, but given its cost, it would make much
more sense to replace the connector.

Steve Mackie

2005-12-05 16:09:02 UTC

Post by d***@my-deja.com
Somebody mentioned Dow Corning #4 dielectric. I would recommend you
use something else because DC 4 is very thin and runny. Loctite makes

Incorrect statement.

So is recommending using dielectric grease to enhance a weak
mechanical connection.

I didn't recommend using grease instead of replacing the connector. The OP
asked for grease available in Canada, I replied with what I use and where to
get it.

Steve

aarcuda69062

2005-12-05 23:57:32 UTC

Post by d***@my-deja.com
Somebody mentioned Dow Corning #4 dielectric. I would recommend you
use something else because DC 4 is very thin and runny. Loctite makes

Incorrect statement.

So is recommending using dielectric grease to enhance a weak
mechanical connection.

I didn't recommend using grease instead of replacing the connector.

You also didn't recommend against the grease or recommend to
replace the connector.

Post by Steve Mackie
The OP
asked for grease available in Canada, I replied with what I use and where to
get it.

Which amounts to recommending the wrong solution to the problem.

Steve Mackie

2005-12-06 01:11:50 UTC

Post by Steve Mackie
I didn't recommend using grease instead of replacing the connector.

You also didn't recommend against the grease or recommend to
replace the connector.

Post by Steve Mackie
The OP
asked for grease available in Canada, I replied with what I use and where to
get it.

Which amounts to recommending the wrong solution to the problem.

So I guess you could say I simply answered his question.

aarcuda69062

2005-12-06 01:18:39 UTC

Post by Steve Mackie
I didn't recommend using grease instead of replacing the connector.

You also didn't recommend against the grease or recommend to
replace the connector.

Post by Steve Mackie
The OP
asked for grease available in Canada, I replied with what I use and

where to

Post by Steve Mackie
get it.

Which amounts to recommending the wrong solution to the problem.

So I guess you could say I simply answered his question.

In the strictest sense of the word, yes you did.

But it's obvious that the OP was approaching the problem without
the slightest hint of direction or idea WRT what he really needed.
IOWs, you answered a wrong question.

Steve Mackie

2005-12-06 01:23:14 UTC

Post by aarcuda69062
Which amounts to recommending the wrong solution to the problem.

So I guess you could say I simply answered his question.

In the strictest sense of the word, yes you did.
But it's obvious that the OP was approaching the problem without
the slightest hint of direction or idea WRT what he really needed.
IOWs, you answered a wrong question.

...and you picked up the slack, so what's the problem?

aarcuda69062

2005-12-06 01:48:19 UTC

Post by aarcuda69062
Which amounts to recommending the wrong solution to the problem.

So I guess you could say I simply answered his question.

In the strictest sense of the word, yes you did.
But it's obvious that the OP was approaching the problem without
the slightest hint of direction or idea WRT what he really needed.
IOWs, you answered a wrong question.

...and you picked up the slack, so what's the problem?

Other than my feet still haven't thawed out, no problem.

Lawrence Glickman

2005-12-06 01:53:42 UTC

On Tue, 06 Dec 2005 01:48:19 GMT, aarcuda69062

Post by aarcuda69062
Which amounts to recommending the wrong solution to the problem.

So I guess you could say I simply answered his question.

In the strictest sense of the word, yes you did.
But it's obvious that the OP was approaching the problem without
the slightest hint of direction or idea WRT what he really needed.
IOWs, you answered a wrong question.

...and you picked up the slack, so what's the problem?

Other than my feet still haven't thawed out, no problem.

It's COLD out there...ain't it dude!

aarcuda69062

2005-12-06 02:30:43 UTC

Post by Lawrence Glickman

Post by aarcuda69062
Other than my feet still haven't thawed out, no problem.

It's COLD out there...ain't it dude!

Winter doesn't even start for another 2 weeks.

Had a customer today that needed a water pump in his 98 Chebbie
pick-up, normally a gravy job except that the shop is already
occupied, this is a 4 door 8 ft box pick-em-up, plenty long...
Enough room to get the nose and part of the cab thru the door
though...

Yep, it's cold out there, it was cold IN there also!

Lawrence Glickman

2005-12-06 02:41:43 UTC

On Tue, 06 Dec 2005 02:30:43 GMT, aarcuda69062

Post by Lawrence Glickman

Post by aarcuda69062
Other than my feet still haven't thawed out, no problem.

It's COLD out there...ain't it dude!

Winter doesn't even start for another 2 weeks.
Had a customer today that needed a water pump in his 98 Chebbie
pick-up, normally a gravy job except that the shop is already
occupied, this is a 4 door 8 ft box pick-em-up, plenty long...
Enough room to get the nose and part of the cab thru the door
though...
Yep, it's cold out there, it was cold IN there also!

Freaking cold. People who don't live around these parts have no idea.
Luck them. Otoh, I have a BIL who lives in FL. He can have it ( with
all the hurricanes and humidity ).

Lg

c***@gmail.com

2005-12-11 02:20:55 UTC

Hi everyone,

Well, I got my windshield washer pump working. I decided to try the
dielectric but that didn't work. I thought about getting a new
connector but wasn't sure if I could find a new one and perphaps a used
one could have the same problems. Instead I stuffed some copper wire in
the female connector and then connected it to the motor. An old trick
that I used to do and forgot all about because it has been about ten
years scince I last did it. Motor works like a charm.

Thanks everyone for your help,

Carl

http://www.geocities.com/billbobbarama

m***@aol.com

2005-12-05 16:45:47 UTC

I use DeoxIT and DeoxIT Grease. Works better than anything else I've
tried. Stabilant is good on stationary connections, but not moving or
under vibration. DeoxIT works under any moving or stationary conditions
and also does a great job cleaning and improving conductivity. They
also have sprays (I love the mini-sprays - easy to carry in my tool
kit) , pens and wipes, which makes it easy to apply. I got this info
from a Ford tech - it is spec'ed in.
Mike

Post by d***@my-deja.com
Somebody mentioned Dow Corning #4 dielectric. I would recommend you
use something else because DC 4 is very thin and runny. Loctite makes

Incorrect statement.

So is recommending using dielectric grease to enhance a weak
mechanical connection.
If anything, Stabilant-22, but given its cost, it would make much
more sense to replace the connector.

Neil Nelson

2005-12-06 00:06:23 UTC

In article

Post by m***@aol.com
I use DeoxIT and DeoxIT Grease. Works better than anything else I've
tried. Stabilant is good on stationary connections, but not moving or
under vibration.

[snip]

A windshield washer pump is neither a moving connection or under
vibration. And, as a reminder, - I - recommend replacing the
fudged connector, the mention of Stabilant was meant to point out
that the prior recommendations (dielectric) were/are 180 degrees
off.

m***@aol.com

2005-12-06 15:36:31 UTC

The whole darn car is under vibration and moving. A stationary
connection would be NOT moving.
Even connections under extreme current vibrate to some extent.

aarcuda69062

2005-12-07 01:04:16 UTC

In article

Post by m***@aol.com
The whole darn car is under vibration and moving. A stationary
connection would be NOT moving.
Even connections under extreme current vibrate to some extent.

from the Stabilant web site;
"Stabilant 22, Stabilant 22A, and Stabilant 22E are used in
electronics where equipment failure can cost lives; equipment
such as biomedical electronics in hospitals, as well as aircraft
navigation and instrument landing systems."

I guess aircraft don't "vibrate and move."

Scott Dorsey

2005-12-07 02:10:38 UTC

Post by aarcuda69062
In article

Post by m***@aol.com
The whole darn car is under vibration and moving. A stationary
connection would be NOT moving.
Even connections under extreme current vibrate to some extent.

Stabilant 22 is a conductant. It's basically a fluid that is conductive
for short distances, but whose resistance drops off rapidly with distance.
It's a conductive polymer, and there was a Scientific American article on
these things in the late 1970s some time that is worth reading.

Stabilant 22 was actually developed for either the Nike or Minuteman
missiles as I recall, to deal with connectors that were failing under
vibration. When it's used, the connectors do not need to maintain absolute
contact, so it prevents arcing when the contact is not firm.

The bad news is that it turns to nasty gunk in the presence of sulfur,
so brass contacts and some phosphor bronze types will make a mess. And
it is NOT a contact cleaner. It is not a substitute for having a good
solid contact. It can make a good solid contact better and more
reliable, but you FIRST need to clean the connectors and make SURE they
have smooth surfaces that aren't pitted from corrosion and arcing.

It's a very useful tool for certain applications, but it's not a cure-all.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

Johnny Hageyama

2005-12-05 21:02:19 UTC

Post by d***@my-deja.com
Somebody mentioned Dow Corning #4 dielectric. I would recommend you
use something else because DC 4 is very thin and runny. Loctite makes

Incorrect statement.

I have a 5.3 oz tube of DC 4: "DOW CORNING 4 compound A SILICONE
DIELECTRIC DESIGNED TO MEET THE REQUIREMENTS OF MIL-S8660B AMEND .3"
Part no. 1527126-0277" It's so runny that I always replace the cap
immediately after each use or some of it'll drip. It's cloudy instead
of opaque like most dielectric greases.

Steve Mackie

2005-12-05 21:34:31 UTC

Post by Johnny Hageyama

Post by d***@my-deja.com
Somebody mentioned Dow Corning #4 dielectric. I would recommend you
use something else because DC 4 is very thin and runny. Loctite makes

Incorrect statement.

I don't know where you are getting it, or where you are keeping it, but I've
been using the stuff for years and never had it run anywhere and I never
have a cap on it.

Steve

H***@nospam.nix

2005-12-06 00:00:16 UTC

Post by Johnny Hageyama
I have a 5.3 oz tube of DC 4: "DOW CORNING 4 compound A SILICONE
DIELECTRIC DESIGNED TO MEET THE REQUIREMENTS OF MIL-S8660B AMEND .3"
Part no. 1527126-0277" It's so runny that I always replace the cap
immediately after each use or some of it'll drip. It's cloudy instead
of opaque like most dielectric greases.

Silicone grease is usually just a silicon polymer (silicone oil) thickened
with
fumed silica.
Under some conditions, like prolonged storage at elevated temperatures or
contamination with a solvent, it might separate and become runny. That is
not, however, the normal state for silicone greases.

d***@my-deja.com

2005-12-06 06:12:13 UTC

Post by d***@my-deja.com
Somebody mentioned Dow Corning #4 dielectric. I would recommend you
use something else because DC 4 is very thin and runny.

Incorrect statement.

DC 4 isn't nearly as thick as common heatsink paste, which contains a
much higher concentration of solids (usually zinc oxide powder).
Otherwise the DC 4 wouldn't have dripped off the heatsinks of my old
Leach amplifier. I also avoided DC 4 and DC 22 on car ignition systems
since any that dripped would accumulate dust and cause carbon tracks.

Steve Mackie

2005-12-06 15:14:38 UTC

Post by d***@my-deja.com

Post by d***@my-deja.com
Somebody mentioned Dow Corning #4 dielectric. I would recommend you
use something else because DC 4 is very thin and runny.

Incorrect statement.

This is all true, but each has it's place. When I use heatsink compound, I
use it exactly for that, heatsinks. I don't interchange the two, I would
never use the grease as a heatsink compound. When you heat the dielectric
grease it gets all runny, but the heatsink compound get harder.

Steve

Ted Mittelstaedt

2005-12-06 06:19:23 UTC

Carl,

Just cut the connector off the end of the wires and solder them on to
the washer pump tabs. There is absolutely no need of a push on connector
here, the only reason the automakers use them is that the manual labor
of soldering takes too long and isn't suitable for an assembly line.

If the washer pump ever dies again, it's a few minutes work to unsolder,
put in a new pump, and resolder.

Ted

Mike Romain

2005-12-06 20:18:33 UTC

If the connector is bad on a wiper motor, the grease isn't likely to
help.

The grease can be found at Canadian Tire. One cheap type is simply
called 'spark plug boot protector'. It works well. I use it on my Jeep
and have had my Jeep crossing water 42" deep with no issues.

The store also sells new plugs with pigtail wires. You might want to
put a new one in or just bypass it altogether.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Scott Dorsey

2005-12-07 00:36:18 UTC

Post by Mike Romain
If the connector is bad on a wiper motor, the grease isn't likely to
help.

The dielectric grease is good stuff. It basically seals connectors
so they don't oxidize as easily. It can prevent connectors from going
bad.

But once a connector has GONE bad, it can't do anything. If the surface
is damaged from corrosion or arcing or overheating, replace the bad
connector.

THEN put dielectric grease on it, so the new one is less likely to fail.

It's true that Cailube, Deoxit, Cramolin and what have you will clean
corrosion off connectors... but with power carrying connectors they
have probably arced over by the time they fail and then it's too late.
For small signal stuff, cleaning is definitely a good idea, though.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

H***@nospam.nix

2005-12-08 14:19:16 UTC