How Much to Replace a GM 3.4 DOHC Timing Belt?

[KC]

Hello All

What is the cost to have the timing belt replaced on a GM 3.4 DOHC engine?
If you've had this job performed on your car, please let me know. I've heard
it is an expensive maintenance item, but am wondering how much in dollars it
typically costs.

Also, any advice on this type of maintenance? Is there anything else that
should be done in conjunction with the timing belt replacement?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

[Neil Nelson]

Post by KC
Hello All
What is the cost to have the timing belt replaced on a GM 3.4 DOHC engine?
If you've had this job performed on your car, please let me know.

Haven't -had- it done, but I've done plenty over the last 10
years or so...

Post by KC
I've heard
it is an expensive maintenance item, but am wondering how much in dollars it
typically costs.

Make, model and year would be nice to know but the typical labor
time for a GM "W" body is 4.5 hours. Figure appx. $75.00 for the
belt.
Multiply the local labor rate by 4.5, add the price of the belt.

Assuming a labor rate of $80.00 per hour, I'd expect the job to
be in the $450-$500 range.

Post by KC
Also, any advice on this type of maintenance? Is there anything else that
should be done in conjunction with the timing belt replacement?

It would be wise to replace the timing belt tensioner at this
time, also, any other accessory belts that might need changing
should be done as removing and re-installing them is part of the
job.

[KC]

Thanks Neil

The car is a 1995 Cutlass Supreme.

Post by Neil Nelson

Post by KC
Hello All
What is the cost to have the timing belt replaced on a GM 3.4 DOHC engine?
If you've had this job performed on your car, please let me know.

Haven't -had- it done, but I've done plenty over the last 10
years or so...

Post by KC
I've heard
it is an expensive maintenance item, but am wondering how much in dollars it
typically costs.

Make, model and year would be nice to know but the typical labor
time for a GM "W" body is 4.5 hours. Figure appx. $75.00 for the
belt.
Multiply the local labor rate by 4.5, add the price of the belt.
Assuming a labor rate of $80.00 per hour, I'd expect the job to
be in the $450-$500 range.

Post by KC
Also, any advice on this type of maintenance? Is there anything else that
should be done in conjunction with the timing belt replacement?

It would be wise to replace the timing belt tensioner at this
time, also, any other accessory belts that might need changing
should be done as removing and re-installing them is part of the
job.

[Barry S.]

Post by KC
Hello All
What is the cost to have the timing belt replaced on a GM 3.4 DOHC engine?
If you've had this job performed on your car, please let me know. I've heard
it is an expensive maintenance item, but am wondering how much in dollars it
typically costs.
Also, any advice on this type of maintenance? Is there anything else that
should be done in conjunction with the timing belt replacement?
Thanks in advance for your advice.

Just a cautionary word of warning for if you do not do the timing belt
in a timely fashion, they do break or become unusable!

Loading Image...
Loading Image...

This belt came off a non-interference engine, so it didn't kill the
valves, but the car was made immobile.


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N38.6 W121.4

[KC]

Barry

Thanks for the info. The car, (a 1995 cutlass supreme), has 63000 miles on
it. I don't plan on pushing my luck, I'm going to get the belt changed. I am
trying to size up the cost so I know what to expect, and what else to
replace at the same time rather than doing it on the cheap and having to
take it all apart again because some other part failed.

I was also toying with the idea of doing it myself. Not sure how much
expertise is needed for this job. I doubt I will. The GM cam shaft timing
tools cost over $200, which is a lot to spend for something that will only
be used every 60,000 miles.

Post by Barry S.

Post by KC
Hello All
What is the cost to have the timing belt replaced on a GM 3.4 DOHC engine?
If you've had this job performed on your car, please let me know. I've heard
it is an expensive maintenance item, but am wondering how much in dollars it
typically costs.
Also, any advice on this type of maintenance? Is there anything else that
should be done in conjunction with the timing belt replacement?
Thanks in advance for your advice.

Just a cautionary word of warning for if you do not do the timing belt
in a timely fashion, they do break or become unusable!
http://www.mailsack.org/t_belt03.JPG
http://www.mailsack.org/t_belt13.JPG
This belt came off a non-interference engine, so it didn't kill the
valves, but the car was made immobile.
__________________
Note: To reply, replace the word 'spam' embedded in return address with 'mail'.
N38.6 W121.4

[Neil Nelson]

Post by KC
Barry
Thanks for the info. The car, (a 1995 cutlass supreme), has 63000 miles on
it. I don't plan on pushing my luck, I'm going to get the belt changed. I am
trying to size up the cost so I know what to expect, and what else to
replace at the same time rather than doing it on the cheap and having to
take it all apart again because some other part failed.

The manufacturers recommended interval is 60K miles, so you're
due.

Post by KC
I was also toying with the idea of doing it myself. Not sure how much
expertise is needed for this job. I doubt I will. The GM cam shaft timing
tools cost over $200, which is a lot to spend for something that will only
be used every 60,000 miles.

The factory tools aren't necessary as long as the belt hasn't
broken or for some other reason, the cams have gone out of time,
-OR- the cam sprockets need to be removed.
Just bring #1 cylinder up to top dead center compression
stroke, mark -all- of the sprockets (5 plus the crankshaft) with
their own timing marks with a fine file and a dab of paint, THEN
remove the old belt and install the new one.

Done it this way many times without problems.

[Bob]

Hey Neil, ever had a problem getting the cam sprocket loose from the cam? We
had one in a few weeks ago with a broken belt and couldn't get the sprockets
loose for anything. Wound up using the cam alignment tool on the front head
and then marking and rotating them 180deg, then putting the tool on the rear
head and putting things back together. It worked but the factory method
would have been easier. Normally I just mark everything before disassembly
like you suggest. This is a gravy job if performed as maintenance, but
becomes a PITA once the belt breaks. Not as big a PITA as that leaky o-ring
on the oil pump drive though, not one of GM's better designs. Oh well......
I guess we could call it job security...lol!
Bob

Post by Neil Nelson

Post by KC
Barry
Thanks for the info. The car, (a 1995 cutlass supreme), has 63000 miles on
it. I don't plan on pushing my luck, I'm going to get the belt changed. I am
trying to size up the cost so I know what to expect, and what else to
replace at the same time rather than doing it on the cheap and having to
take it all apart again because some other part failed.

The manufacturers recommended interval is 60K miles, so you're
due.

Post by KC
I was also toying with the idea of doing it myself. Not sure how much
expertise is needed for this job. I doubt I will. The GM cam shaft timing
tools cost over $200, which is a lot to spend for something that will only
be used every 60,000 miles.

The factory tools aren't necessary as long as the belt hasn't
broken or for some other reason, the cams have gone out of time,
-OR- the cam sprockets need to be removed.
Just bring #1 cylinder up to top dead center compression
stroke, mark -all- of the sprockets (5 plus the crankshaft) with
their own timing marks with a fine file and a dab of paint, THEN
remove the old belt and install the new one.
Done it this way many times without problems.

[Neil Nelson]

Post by Bob
Hey Neil, ever had a problem getting the cam sprocket loose from the cam? We
had one in a few weeks ago with a broken belt and couldn't get the sprockets
loose for anything. Wound up using the cam alignment tool on the front head
and then marking and rotating them 180deg, then putting the tool on the rear
head and putting things back together. It worked but the factory method
would have been easier. Normally I just mark everything before disassembly
like you suggest. This is a gravy job if performed as maintenance, but
becomes a PITA once the belt breaks. Not as big a PITA as that leaky o-ring
on the oil pump drive though, not one of GM's better designs. Oh well......
I guess we could call it job security...lol!

Had to pull the sprockets on one many years ago, but can't
remember what I did exactly, I do know I made my own tool but can
not now remember who borrowed it and didn't return it.

Haven't had a customer yet who's willing to pay to have the rear
head removed to replace the oil pump drive O-ring, so I slit a
distributor gasket and spiral it into place, then use a bead of
Chrysler engine RTV. Haven't had on come back leaking yet, and I
-do- remember the lengthy discussion on i-atn about doing this
type of repair.
Yup, as long as no one sweats the details at GM, we got job
security.

[shiden_Kai]

Post by Neil Nelson
Haven't had a customer yet who's willing to pay to have the rear
head removed to replace the oil pump drive O-ring, so I slit a
distributor gasket and spiral it into place, then use a bead of
Chrysler engine RTV. Haven't had on come back leaking yet, and I
-do- remember the lengthy discussion on i-atn about doing this
type of repair.

Geez, was that comment kinda directed sideways at me?...Heh heh.
Of course, I'm sure that discussion has happened a number of times
on i-atn.

Ian

[shiden_Kai]

Post by KC
I was also toying with the idea of doing it myself. Not sure how much
expertise is needed for this job. I doubt I will. The GM cam shaft timing
tools cost over $200, which is a lot to spend for something that will only
be used every 60,000 miles.

Follow Neil's advice about how to simply mark the sprocket
location and then you will not have to use the "special" tool.
I can't remember the last time I used the special tool, so far
I've been fairly lucky and the original factory paint marks
have always been visible.

A couple of things I would just comment on. Make sure
that you replace the two plastic idler pulleys, they are often
the cause of the belt going belly up in the first place. And,
when you mark the sprockets with the old belt in place,
and then install the new belt, depending on how much the
belt has stretched, you will notice that the front cam marks
line up quite close, but the rear cam marks may appear
to be slightly out. This is simply from the belt stretching.

Ian

[KC]

Guys, since you all seem to be well acquainted with this engine, do you have
any other maintenance advice for me? As I mentioned earlier, the car is a
1995 Olds Cutlass convertible with 63,000 miles on it. I purchased it this
past winter and have it parked until the weather warms up.

I change the oil in my cars every 3000 miles. Is there anything else I
should do maintenance-wise in particular with the 3.4 engine?

Before I start driving it this spring I plan on:
Replace timing belt, (idlers and actuator as well)
Replace serpentine
Replace spark plugs
Flush cooling system (it has Dex-Cool in it)
Replace Air Filter
Replace Fuel Filter
Change transmission fluid and filter
I don't see any oil leaks yet, but I've read that issue with the oil pump
O-ring is not if it will leak but when.

But anyway, any maintenance advice you can pass along about this engine
would be appreciated

Post by shiden_Kai

Post by KC
I was also toying with the idea of doing it myself. Not sure how much
expertise is needed for this job. I doubt I will. The GM cam shaft timing
tools cost over $200, which is a lot to spend for something that will only
be used every 60,000 miles.

Follow Neil's advice about how to simply mark the sprocket
location and then you will not have to use the "special" tool.
I can't remember the last time I used the special tool, so far
I've been fairly lucky and the original factory paint marks
have always been visible.
A couple of things I would just comment on. Make sure
that you replace the two plastic idler pulleys, they are often
the cause of the belt going belly up in the first place. And,
when you mark the sprockets with the old belt in place,
and then install the new belt, depending on how much the
belt has stretched, you will notice that the front cam marks
line up quite close, but the rear cam marks may appear
to be slightly out. This is simply from the belt stretching.
Ian

[Neil Nelson]

Post by KC
Guys, since you all seem to be well acquainted with this engine, do you have
any other maintenance advice for me? As I mentioned earlier, the car is a
1995 Olds Cutlass convertible with 63,000 miles on it. I purchased it this
past winter and have it parked until the weather warms up.
I change the oil in my cars every 3000 miles. Is there anything else I
should do maintenance-wise in particular with the 3.4 engine?
Replace timing belt, (idlers and actuator as well)
Replace serpentine
Replace spark plugs
Flush cooling system (it has Dex-Cool in it)
Replace Air Filter
Replace Fuel Filter
Change transmission fluid and filter
I don't see any oil leaks yet, but I've read that issue with the oil pump
O-ring is not if it will leak but when.
But anyway, any maintenance advice you can pass along about this engine
would be appreciated

Looks like a pretty good plan.